Fishing Rods Buyers Guide

Planning a fishing trip? Have a look at our guides to fishing rods and reels to make sure you're clued up before buying. You can either read all about them or simply click on a subject heading on the right and jump straight to that section.

There are a number of rod types available. We have looked at fishing sets, fly fishing rods, coarse fishing rods, fishing poles, specimen rods, telescopic rods, beach casting rods and boat fishing rods. Read them to learn more about them or, if you know what you want, jump straight to it by clicking on it above.

Fishing sets are basic fishing kits aimed at the novice, child or holiday angler. They comprise of a compact rod or pole which can have push together or telescopic sections, a suitable compact reel and a few basic items of tackle that are required to start fishing. A coarse fishing set, for example, will include hooks, weights, floats, a spool of monofilament line, plummet and disgorger. All sets come with an instructional leaflet enabling the angler to get started and catch a few fish. If you are new to angling consider these sets - the last thing you want to do is spend a lot of money on equipment only to find out you dislike fishing or you would rather try a different type of fishing. Fishing sets are available from £10-£30.

Whatever sort of fly rod you buy it is important that you match the rod to the type of line you use. The line is numbered 1-12 according to weight and the rod you buy will also be numbered 1-12. This numbering system is known as AFTM ratings (see Jargon Buster). It is the best way to ensure you buy a rod suited to the tackle you wish to use. Fly rods are available in a number of sections from 2 up to 5. A rod of 5 sections will fold up so small that it can be kept in the car boot all the time, ready for use. Rods of 2 sections tend to be at risk of damage because of their awkward length when not in use.

Float rods and match rods are both designed for float fishing (which is a type of coarse fishing technique) but a match rod is more sensitive. If you intend to use very fine terminal tackle (line, hooks etc.) then go for a match rod. Float rods will cope with heavier lines up to 6lb in strength. One float rod may be suitable for lakes and rivers but ledger rods need to be able to cast different weights at varying distances. You used to have to buy many different rods of different casting abilities to cope with differing situations but now there are ledger rods available with interchangeable tip sections of different strengths, which can be swapped around to suit casting weight. This can save you money.

Don't expect one pole to be suitable for all types of fish. An ultra slim, lightweight pole will be fine for small fish but will feel powerless and may even break if fishing at venues where carp, bream or tench are present. It is best to buy the longest pole you can afford that has been designed to be used at that length. The pole should be as rigid as possible and still bend appropriately when under force. Avoid extension sections as they unbalance the pole and make it difficult to control. To avoid wear on the section joints, opt for the “put-over” type.

Specimen fishing involves trying to catch the biggest size of fish within a particular species. This usually means using bigger baits and sometimes casting further than normal. What it certainly means is that you are going to require a stronger and more specialist type of rod. The strength of a specimen rod is indicated by its test curve. The test curve indicates the amount of power needed to pull the rod tip from straight, round to 90° and is measured in ¼lb divisions. As a guide for using the correct strength of line for the rod, ½lb test curve = 2lb line. Therefore a rod with a test curve of 2lb will perform best with line of 8lb. This is just a guide and assumes you can go up to 10lb max. and 6lb min. Specimen rods are made especially for a particular species and at different lengths and strengths to suit every fishing situation. A stalking rod is a good example of this. It is designed to be lightweight and strong yet short enough to poke through waterside bushes and cast where space is limited. They are 6-8ft in length but as strong as a 12ft rod. There is also a rod called a “spod” rod designed especially for casting bait carrying devices. These rods have to be able to cast 12oz of bait up to and over 100m. In order to do this the rods must be incredibly strong, tip-action and have a test curve of 3½-5lb. The spod rod is only a casting tool and too strong to be pleasurable to catch fish on, except maybe large catfish.

Float rods and match rods are both designed for float fishing (which is a type of coarse fishing technique) but a match rod is more sensitive. If you intend to use very fine terminal tackle (line, hooks etc.) then go for a match rod. Float rods will cope with heavier lines up to 6lb in strength. One float rod may be suitable for lakes and rivers but ledger rods need to be able to cast different weights at varying distances. You used to have to buy many different rods of different casting abilities to cope with differing situations but now there are ledger rods available with interchangeable tip sections of different strengths, which can be swapped around to suit casting weight. This can save you money. Telescopic rods are extended to full length in much the same way as a car aerial extends. The advantage of this is the rod is always in one piece and when collapsed will take up very little space, which makes it suitable for travelling or when storage space is limited. Unfortunately they are not as strong as normal jointed rods and feel underpowered when heavy force is applied.

Each beach casting rod has a recommended casting weight in ounces. Try to judge the amount of weight you will need before choosing a rod. Remember during the winter the weather conditions are at their worst. A more powerful rod will be needed to cast against strong winds and/or tides in order to achieve the same distances as in summer.

Boat rod strengths are indicated by their IGFA ratings (see Jargon Buster). The classes are 12lb, 20lb, for inshore fishing and 30lb, 50lb and 80lb for deepwater and wreck fishing. Roller type rings are essential on 50lb and 80lb class rods, as the force exerted on the rod will break standard rings. If using wire line always buy roller rings because wire will cut through standard rings. In shallow water it can be beneficial to cast further away from the boat in order to tempt fish that may be put off by the noise of the boat and/or shadow created by it. Some boat rods can be bought with interchangeable tip sections, which allow the angler to vary the length and/or strength of the rod. If you can't afford different rods for different situations then consider these adaptable types.

The quality of materials used to make rods dictates their price. Carbon-fibre is the best all round material as it is very strong, highly responsive, and lightweight. It can be combined with glass-fibre to make low cost rods, used on its own for medium cost rods or combined with state of the art materials like boron and kevlar to make high performance, high cost rods.

The way in which a rod bends is known as its action and can be tip-action (only the tip bends), middle-action (bends from the tip to half way down the rod) or through-action (bends from tip right down to the handle). The action will affect the distance the rod is best used at.


Tip-action = long range
Middle-action = medium range
Through-action = close range

Its taper defines the action of a rod and its taper is the difference in diameter from butt to tip (from the handle end of a rod to its smallest end). If a rod has a very large diameter butt and a very small diameter tip it is known to have a “fast-taper” meaning an extreme difference in diameters form one end to the other. If a rod has very little change in diameter along its length it has a “slow-taper”. A rod with a taper between these two extremes is known as “medium-taper”.

The best way is to go to a shop, pick it up and hold it. If buying on-line or mail order you won't be able to do so until you buy, but don't worry, as you will usually be given an approval period and allowed to refund it if it is not suitable. Assemble the rod and hold it by the handle. Get the shop assistant or a friend to hold the tip firmly while you bend the rod by pulling up slowly on the handle. From this simple test you will instantly feel the strength of the rod and be able to see how far down the bend reaches. Attach a reel if the shop assistant will let you (or bring your own if you already have one) and try to judge how it would feel being held for long periods of time. If it doesn't feel right try another. Don't sacrifice your potential enjoyment by purchasing unsuitable gear!

Check how comfortable it is to hold - whether it is too heavy, light etc.

Make sure it has the type of action you require.

Check that it is sensitive enough for your needs.

Make sure it is powerful enough to cast the distance you want.

Check that it will still cast the distance you want even if the weather conditions worsen, winds increase, tides change etc.

Think about the size of fish you intend to catch and check that the rod is powerful enough to bring in that size of fish.

Make sure that it folds down to the size you require.

Check how versatile it is.